rcs c handbook

7/29/2019 Rcs c Handbook

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WELCOME TO THE SCMA

ROCK CLIMBING SAFETY COURSE!

The goals of the SCMA are to provide fellowship and to promote safety in both

rock climbing and technical mountaineering. To this end, the SCMA offers rock climbinginstruction. However, the practice sessions of this course offer only the basics; the bulkof experience comes later by climbing in places such as Tahquitz, Suicide, Joshua Tree,Yosemite, and other locations-to all of which the SCMA runs climbing trips. In addition,the SCMA runs High Sierra trips. These trips require mountaineering as well as rockclimbing skills.

Our hope is that you will go on to become active members, taking full advantageof all the SCMA has to offer, as well as sharing your knowledge and skills with thosewho come after.

THE TRAINING COURSE The SCMA and RCSC Committee is composed entirely of SCMA regularmembers who volunteer their time.

ABOUT THE COURSE The purposes of the SCMA, Rock Climbing Safety Course is to provide thetraining necessary to enter the SCMA, promotion of safe rock climbing, and workingtoward greater fellowship within the climbing community. Attendance at all classsessions is mandatory. Class sessions take place roughly every other weekend duringthe course, thus allowing you to PRACTICE in between instructional sessions. Thecourse covers basic rock technique and safety skills, knots, tie-in, belay, signals,

rappelling, overhanging rappel, leader belay, fallen climber tie-off/escape the belay,prusiking, and multi-pitch climbing. It culminates at the Graduation Trip, 2 days ofcamping and climbing with the entire class and SCMA members, where you will put allthat you have learned together and enjoy rock climbing safely.

COURSE COMPLETION REQUIREMENTS1. Attend all Class/Training sessions.

2. Obtain all sign-offs of climbing skills.

3. Graduation Trip

4. Receive favorable evaluations on two multi-pitch climbs. The evaluations must begiven by two different regular SCMA members. The evaluation climbs must be threeor more pitches and use natural protection. More information will be presented onthis during the course.

Regular SCMA members are a finite resource! Most will do evaluation climbs withstudents who are enthusiastic about climbing. However, students who procrastinate ingetting their evaluations done are likely to find that there are fewer regular members



willing to do evaluation climbs late in the year. Most fall climbing trips are to areas withfew or no routes meeting the multi-pitch requirements.

CLASS/TRAINING SESSIONS The class/training sessions include lecture/demonstrations, practice, and sign-

offs in basic safety skills. They also include bouldering and top-rope climbs that givestudents a chance to enjoy climbing, learn climbing technique, and get acquainted withfellow students and instructors.

At the beginning of each class/training session the group will meet to discuss anddemonstrate the climbing skills for the day. Sign-offs will take place during a prescribedtime.

As you will learn, some safety techniques may have several “right ways” and thepreferences and practices of instructors may differ from those in the MountaineeringHandbook. During the course we prefer that you follow the procedures in theMountaineering Handbook. Later, as you gain experience, you can modify thetechniques according to your own preferences. Any disputes regarding techniques orrequirements for sign-off should be referred to a member of the RCSC Committee.

REMINDERRemember: Completion of this course is just a beginning. Climb within your capabilitiesat all times, and climb only with experienced climbers. Climbing is a potentiallyhazardous activity, and until you have sufficient experience you will not be able toappreciate or evaluate the risks of a particular climb. It is therefore important that youclimb with experienced climbers until you yourself are sufficiently experienced andknowledgeable about the risks inherent in climbing.By enrolling in this course you are considered a SCMA Student. Students may attendSCMA outings. You are not permitted to climb with other students on SCMA outingsunless an SCMA regular member is leading you.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The SCMA Rock Climbing Safety Course owes a great deal to a great manypeople. We (the SCMA) would like to thank them profusely. LeRoy Russ and MargoKoss who chaired the Training Committee during the last years of the Sierra Club'sRock Climbing Section (RCS), before the birth of the SCMA, and who first compiled themajority of information used in the present course.

As Well As:

Phil Rabichow, Kathy Moore-Brown, Andre Korbut-Weberg, Susannah LeBaron, JohnR. Gonzales, Randy Kirkpatrick, Murray Zichlinsky, Mike Hearn, Michael Gordon andGerry Cox. Each one has reformatted, edited or updated the Rock Climbing SafetyCourse (RCSC) literature, contributing to the current Student Handbook and theInstructors' Guidelines.

Plus



Those who've served as Chair and Group Leaders in the RCSC.

But Especially

We would especially like to thank the many instructors and students who have not onlyparticipated in the Course, but have shared their valuable insights and suggestions aswell.

THANK YOU!!

Mike Sauter

Steve Sauter

Disclaimer

Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. While employment of proper safety gear, safety

techniques and safety training may help provide a measure of safety to the individual, there is no

way to eliminate the risk. SCMA members, their guests, and climbers in general should

recognize the potential for personal risk, injury, and death. It is the individual’s responsibility to

understand all risks associated with the activity and to take appropriate safety precautions.

Any individual (member or guest) wishing to participate in a SCMA sponsored event, does so at

their own risk. The SCMA makes no promise or guarantee of safety, or any degree of safety.

Furthermore, participation in any SCMA training program, seminar, or workshop is no guaranteeor promise of safety, either explicitly or implicitly, by the SCMA.

Non-Discrimination and Non-Harassment Policies

The SCMA does not discriminate according to gender, age, culture, ethnicity, handicap, race or

religion. Membership is to open any individual upon successful completion of all membership

requirements.

The SCMA encourages diversity in its membership and the free exchange of ideas and

experiences that may result. Furthermore, the SCMA strives to provide a harassment-free

environment among its membership and at club sponsored events.If any member believes she or he is being discriminated against, is the victim of harassment, or

has knowledge of such acts, please report it to the SCMA Board of Directors (BOD). The BOD

will investigate any allegations and take appropriate action to resolve the issue. Such actions the

BOD may take include, but are not limited to, suspension of membership, termination of

membership, or other disciplinary action deemed necessary.



Contacts and Useful Information

Mike Sauter (949) 295-6235SCMA RCSC Chair [email protected]

Steve Sauter (626) 533-6343SCMA RCSC Committee [email protected]

Laurie Carr (310) 478-3442SCMA RCSC Committee [email protected]

Joe King (909) 466-9097SCMA President [email protected]

Southern California Mountaineersʼ Association website is www.rockclimbing.orgAccess to the members area: User Name: SCMA Password: RCSC2009

Within the members area you will find links to important member documents.

Cliffnotes- A monthly newsletter detailing the exploits of various SCMA activities withtrip reports, pictures, and the events calendar.

Member Handbook- Newly revised. All the rules and guidelines that establish theSCMA.

Rock Climbing Safety Skills Course Website is http://brcsc.pbwiki.com/ You will receive an email inviting you to join the website. Please sign on so that you willreceive new information and updates for the class.

http://brcsc.pbwiki.com/



http://www.rockclimbing.org/

http://www.rockclimbing.org/

mailto:[email protected]










Orientation Session - January 24th, 2009REI Arcadia and The Arc Climbing Gym

Demonstration and Practice

Climbing Knots Climbing Technique

Belay Technique Bouldering and Spotting

Tope Rope Climbing Advanced Climbing Technique

• Orientation Session

• Location-

• Introduction to Rock Climbing Safety Course

• Introduction to SCMA Slideshow

• Instruction Begins• Climbing Types and History of the sport

• Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, andMountaineering

• Climbing Gear –Lecture on the different types and a general overview of theirapplications. The proper type needed for the RCSC and general Traditionalclimbing will be stressed to the student.

• Knots

Absolutely Required Knots

Overhand

Slip Knot

Figure 8 Follow Through

Figure 8 on a Bight

Double Fisherman’s Knot

Bowline

Girth Hitch

Clove Hitch

Munter Hitch

Prusik KnotWater Knot

Auto-block (Rappel back-up)

Need to Know Knots

Square Knot

Butterfly Knot

Mariner’s Knot

Bowline on a Coil



• Basic Climbing Technique

Body position with a focus on weight over the feet, and balance

An emphasis on proper footwork in coordination with hands and thoughtfulmovement up the rock will be enforced.Hand positions

- Jugs, Edges, Crimps, Side pulls, Under clings, Press downFoot positions

- Smearing, Edging, Stemming, Weight distribution and balanceMantlingCrack ClimbingRestingDown-climbingBouldering

Spotting

• Belay & Signals

Belaying techniqueBelay anchors and tying inBelay chain, and belay scenarios.Belaying with a mechanical deviceHip Belay

Signals (Verbal and Rope)

• Top-Rope Climbing

Put all your new skills together and safely climbTie in to the ropeVerbal signalsAttach belay anchor

Belay a top-roped climber with both hands



• Homework

• All the skills that you learned during the Orientation Session are homework.You will be tested on all these skills during Session 1.

• Required Readings: “Freedom of the Hills” Chapters 9, 10, 11, and 12.

“Mastering Basic Skills” Chapters 1-6 and 11.

• Practice, Practice, Practice, all skills and techniques. Building your “musclememory” for climbing.

• GO Climbing! Any kind, and is highly encouraged between sessions.

• Required Equipment for all Students - The following equipment is requiredto complete the course and will be needed by the Session 1, Feb. 9th:

Seat Harness, haul loop preferred.Rock Climbing Shoes. Board lasted is preferred.

Climbing Helmet certified for climbing by CEN and UIAA.3 Locking Carabiners: 2 D-shaped and 1 Pearshaped for belaying4 non-locking Carabiners. Oval shaped, with straight gates only.1 mechanical belay device. Figure 8 repel device is not allowed.Cordelette- 20 Feet of 7mm nylon cordComfortable climbing clothes. Dress in layers for cold mornings, and hotafternoons.

• Recommended gear, not required.

Rain Gear. Class will be held rain or shine.Hat

SunglassesSunscreenClimbing knifeApproach shoes with sticky rubber.

Recommended outfitters:REI-Locations throughout the southland. www.rei.com Adventure 16-Locations throughout the southland. www.adventure16.comSports Chalet-Locations throughout the southland. www.sportschalet.com

http://www.sportschalet.com/

http://www.rei.com/

http://www.rei.com/



http://www.adventure16.com/

http://www.adventure16.com/

http://www.rei.com/

http://www.rei.com/



Session 1 - February 7th, 2009Stoney Point 8:00 am - 5:00 pm

Climbing Skills Test

All Climbing Knots All Signals Bouldering and Spotting

Belay Anchors Belaying with BothHands

Top Rope Climbing

New Skills Demonstration and Practice (Afternoon)

Rappel using an ATC with Self-BelayBack-Up (Auto-block)

Rappel using a Munter Hitch with aSelf-Belay Back-Up (Auto-block)

• Session 1

• Location - Stoney Point, Chatsworth• Instruction Begins 8:00 am

• Sign Offs –You will be directed to stations around Stoney Point in groups,where you will be tested by demonstrating these skills. You must pass all teststo complete the course.

KNOTS

• Students must demonstrate without assistance all the required knotsfor the course, and know their uses.

BOULDERING & SPOTTING

• Students must demonstrate climbing technique by name. They must

also demonstrate proper spotting for other climbers.BELAY ANCHORS & BELAY SIGNALS

• Students must demonstrate their ability to arrange a standard belayanchor using webbing or slings and natural anchors, and understanddirection of pull.

• Students must demonstrate all verbal belay signals and know theirpurpose.

BELAYING & TOP-ROPE CLIMBING

• Completion and sign-offs for all other stations must be met beforestudents can move to this station.

• Students must demonstrate their ability to belay a top-roped climber

with both hands, using a mechanical belay device.• Students must demonstrate their ability to tie in to a top rope with a

Figure 8 Follow Through, and demonstrate all verbal belay signals.

• LUNCH 11:00-12:00



• New Skills Instruction

• Rappelling: Demonstration and Lecture

• The Rappel System

• Anchor

• Rope• coiling, flaking and tossing

• Signals

• Methods - Devices

• Using a Self Belay back-up (Autoblock)

• Munter-Hitch as a Rappelling device

• Practice Rappelling

• Use the remainder of the day to practice rappelling.

• Also practice climbing technique and belaying techniques.

• Homework • Required Readings “Freedom of the Hills” Chapters 4, 5, & 6.

“Mastering Basic Skills” Chapter 11 and 14 pages 266-267.

• GO climbing! To a gym, or with a competent climber and practice Belaying,Rappelling, tying Prusik knots, Munter-Hitchʼs, and the rest of your knots andclimbing techniques.

• You will be tested on Rappelling during Session 2 so be prepared.



Rappelling: The following procedure is required for the student to pass their rappel test.

Anchors- Ensure the rappel anchors are secure, and check all knots and carabiners. Redundancy for

the anchors is important and must be stressed.

Anchor Yourself- The students must anchor themselves to the top anchors with a sling and a locking

carabiner before proceeding onto the next step.

Rope- The rope must be attached to the anchors using a locking carabiner or two carabiners with gatesopposite and opposed. Stopper knots must be tied in the ends of the ropes. Pile the rope on the edge of

the cliff so that it may feed easily once thrown. Before the rope is thrown over the cliff, give theappropriate,”ROPE” call and listen for any answer. Throw the rope over the cliff, clearing any ledges, and

make sure the rope has reached the ground with both ends. If not, pull the rope, pile it, and throw again.

Rappel Back-up “AUTOBLOCK”- The Autoblock knot must be tied to the rope first. Attached it to thebrake side leg-loop with a short sling. The Autoblock acts as a back-up to the rappel by keeping thebrake end of the rope in a downward and locked position. In the event the brake end of the rope is lost

during rappelling, the autoblock will keep the rope orientated downwards, thus keeping a brakeemployed on the rope. If the Autoblock is rigged with too long of a sling, it will not keep the break end of

the rope down, and is no good as a back-up knot. Please advise the students of this.

Rappel with ATC- Attach the ATC device to the rope, making sure both strands are feed through thedevice properly and attach with a locking carabiner to the students belay loop.

Rappel with a Munter-Hitch- Used with a locking carabiner, the munter-hitch is to be used as anemergency rappel method. Always be sure that the load side of the rope strand is against the spine of the

carabiner. The Munter Hitch performs beautifully for rappelling by way of friction. The major downside tousing the Munter Hitch is the amount of kinking and twisting it can do to the rope.

Check the System- Do a visual check on every segment of the rappel set-up. Visually check theanchors looking for unlocked gates, direction of pull, ect. Check that the rappel device is properly

threaded. Check the harness for double backing of the buckle. Check the Autoblock knot looking forproper length of sling.

Signals- Give the verbal signal for rappelling, warning others of your intention and to ensure the rope is

clear for use. “On Rappel” Wait for a response. If the OK is given, or nothing is heard after a fewseconds you are ready to rappel.

Remove Self-Anchor- Remove the self-anchor and prepare to take your weight on the rope and theRappel device.

Weight the Rope- Gently lean back and apply your weight to the rope and rappel set-up. Double check

the system once weighted and continue with a visually check of all the components. If anything in thesystem is questionable, quickly attach yourself back to the anchors and fix the problem. If everything is

acting as it should be, continue with the rappel.

Body Position- During rappelling, proper body position is critical. Maintain a sitting position in the

harness, with legs extended in front of you keeping your feet as high as possible. A controlled descent isdesired, avoid jumping or bouncing on rappel. Slowly walk backwards down the rock always looking

beneath you for footing and obstructions.

Off Belay- Once safely on the ground remove Rappel device, and back-up knot before giving the signal

that you are off rappel. When ready, give the signal, “OFF RAPPEL.



Session 2 - February 21st, 2009Stoney Point - 8:00 am - 5:00 pm


Rappel using an ATC with a Self-Belay Back-Up (Auto-block)

Rappel using a Munter Hitch with a Self-Belay Back-Up (Auto-block)

New Skills Demonstration and Practice (Afternoon)

Prusik set-up Prusik up the rope

• Session 2

• Location - Stoney Point, Chatsworth.

• Instruction Begins 8:00 am

• Sign-Offs - You will be directed to stations around Stoney Point in groups, whereyou will be tested by demonstrating these skills. You must pass all tests tocomplete the course.

RAPPELLING - Using an ATC and a Self-Belay back-up (Auto-block).

• Students must demonstrate their ability to safely secure a Self-BelayBack-up, properly attach themselves to the rope and proceed to rappeldown using proper signals and technique.

RAPPELLING - Using a Munter-Hitch and a Self-Belay Back-Up (Auto-block).

• Students must demonstrate their ability to safely rappel using a Munter-

Hitch.

• LUNCH 11:00 – 12:00

• New Skills Instruction

• Prusik set-up demonstration and scenario

• Prusik up a rope, over the lip.

• Practice of New Skills

• Use the remainder of the day practicing rappelling and prusiking

• Top-Rope climbing.

• Homework

• GO climbing!

• You will be tested on Prusiking during Session 3.

• Required Readings: “Freedom of the Hills” Chapters 7, 8, & 24.“Mastering Basic Skills” Chapter 14.



Student Rappel and Prusik an Overhang Test

The student must set up for a rappel using the following steps.

1. Anchor yourself to the anchor using a locking carabiner and sling attached to theharness.

2. Back-up Rappel with the “Auto-block”.

3. Attach ATC device and Double check the system: Anchor, Rope, Auto-block, ATC,Locking Carabiner, Harness. Yell the signal for Rappelling, “On Rappel!”

4. Rappel over the Overhang to about 10 feet from the ground. STOP!

The student must set up prusiks to ascend the rope.

1. Back-up the Auto-block with 2-3 “leg wraps” of the rope.

2. Attach the first Prusik to the rope. Add a sling to extend it to the harness with alocking carabiner if needed.

3. Attach the second Prusik below the first. Add a sling for a foot loop.

4. Unwrap the “leg wraps” and back up short to the climbing rope using an OverhandFigure 8 on a bite and a locking carabiner to the harness.

5. Double-check the system. Make sure all the knots are tied correctly, and carabiners

are locked in place. The rappel device and auto-block should remain attached. Givethe signal, “Prusiking!”

6. Begin prusiking up the rope. Remember to keep feeding the slack rope through theATC and tying in short with the climbing rope every 10 feet or so with an OverhandFigure 8 on a bite and a locking carabiner to the harness.

7. Surmount the lip of the overhang by adding a third prusik above the lip, and eitheruse it as a hand hold or attach a sling for a foot loop.

8. Anchor yourself. Remove all the knots and slings and give the signal, “Off Rope!”

Gear Needed: 2-3 Prusik loops, ATC with locking carabiner, Auto-block loop, 3-4locking carabiners, 3-4 should length slings, cordelette (optional to use as prusik loop)



Session 3 March 7th, 2009Mt. Rubidoux - 8:00 am - 5:00 pm


Rappel off an Overhang Prusik up an Overhang

New Skills Demonstration and Practice

Fallen Climber Tie-Off/Escape the Belay

• Session 3

• Location - Mt. Rubidoux, Riverside

• Instruction Begins 8:00 am

• Sign Offs – Stations - You will be directed to stations around Mt. Rubidoux ingroups, where you will be tested by demonstrating these skills. You must pass all

tests to complete the course.

RAPPEL OVER AN OVERHANG

• Students must demonstrate, without assistance their ability to

• Anchor themselves

• Tie a Self-Belay Back-up knot,

• Attach rappel device to the rope and rappel over an overhang usingappropriate signals

PRUSIK UP AN OVERHANG

• Students must demonstrate their ability to safely ascend a rope usingprusik knots and back-ups to navigate over the overhang to the top.

• New Skills Instruction - Demonstration and Lecture

• Fallen Climber Tie-off and Escape the Belay

• How to, in the event of an accident, secure the fallen or injured climbersafely.

• Escape the Belay safely, and proceed with rescue.

• Re-Enter the Belay safely.

• Homework• GO CLIMBING! You should be climbing by now. Go!

• Required Readings: “Mastering Basic Skills” Chapter 5.



Fallen Climber Tie-off/Escape the Belay

1. Tie-off the climber using a mule knot through your belay device to free your hands.

2. Using the slack in the rope below your belay device, tie a figure-eight on a bight and

clip it to the anchor using a locking carabiner. Note: make sure to leave about five

feet of slack between your belay device and the figure eight knot, you ʼll need it later.

3. Tie a prusik knot above your belay device.

4. Connect the prusik to a double-length sling (or equivalent). Note: connecting thetwo via a girth hitch is acceptable but be aware that it cuts the strength of both theprusik cord and sling by approximately one-third; better to connect them with alocking carabiner. Also, a long prusik cord can replace the sling or a cordelettecould be used for the entire process.

5. Using the double-length sling, tie a marinerʼs knot at the anchor on a separatelocking carabiner.

6. Release the mule knot on your belay device; this transfers the load to the prusik/ marinerʼs knot.

7. Remove your belay device from the rope. You are now out of the system.

8. Using the slack in the rope below the prusik knot, tie a munter hitch at the anchor,making sure to pull all of the slack out of the rope between the prusik and munterhitch; use a separate locking carabiner.

9. Tie-off the munter hitch with a mule knot; this is where you need the slack from step2.

10.Re-adjust the back-up figure-eight, removing the slack between it and the munter/ mule, if necessary.

11.Release the marinerʼs knot; this transfers the load back to the rope.

12.Remove the prusik and marinerʼs knot from the system.

This system leaves the load directly on the anchor using the rope. The munter/mule

knot is backed up using a figure-eight with minimal slack: if the munter/mule should slip(or fail) the load will fall a distance equal to the amount of rope used to tie the munter/ mule before the figure-eight catches, thus the reason for adjusting the figure-eight instep 10. To re-enter the system, simply reverse the process.



Session 4 - March 21st, 2009

Mt. Rubidoux - 8:00 am - 5:00 pm

Demonstration and Practice (Morning)

Setting Protection Belay Anchors

Top Rope Anchors

Climbing Skills Test (Afternoon)

Anchor Test

• Session 4

• Location - Mt. Rubidoux, Riverside• Instruction Begins 8:00

• Students will have the morning to practice placing protection, and buildinganchors using passive, and natural protection.

• Topics Covered

• Introduction to Protection

• Natural

• Trees, Shrubs, Bushes, Boulders, Blocks, Horns, Chockstones

• Passive Chocks

• Nuts, Tapers, Stoppers, Hexes, Tri-Cams, Big Bros

• SLCD (Spring Loaded Camming Devices)• 3 Cam, 4 Cam, Flexible and Rigid stem

• Fixed Gear

• Pitons, Bolts and Hangers, Cold Shuts

• Runners, Slings and Cordalette

• Equalizing Protection and Building Anchors

• SRENE-(Solid, Redundant, Equalized, NO Extension) with situationalvariations

• Multi-directional

• Redundancy

• Rappel Anchors

• Belay Anchors

• Leading and Protection

• LUNCH 12:00



• SIGN-OFFS -

• Sign Offs – Stations - You will be directed to stations around Mt. Rubidoux ingroups, where you will be tested by demonstrating these skills. You must passall tests to complete the course.

THE ANCHOR TEST

• The students will receive a handout describing what is required topass the anchor test. They will also be able to refer to the handoutduring the test.

• The students will be required to each build an anchor using thetechniques taught during the class. It must be solid, redundant,equalized, and set in the anticipated direction of pull (force).

• They must then use their anchor, and set up a rappel.

• Safely Rappel down, using a Self-Belay Back-up (Auto-block), andall the appropriate signals.

• If all is completed satisfactorily, the student will be signed off.

• Homework

• Practice placing protection and rigging equalization with slings.

• Required Readings: “Freedom of the Hills” Chapters 13, 14, & 15.“Mastering Basic Skills” Chapter 5, 7, 9 & 10.



Session 5 - April 4th, 2009Big Rock, Lake Perris - 8:00 am - 5:00 pm

New Skills Demonstration and Practice (Morning)

Multi-Pitch Climbing

• Session 5

• Location - Big Rock, Perris Ca

• Topics Covered

• Multi-pitch climbing

• Instruction Begins

• The students will receive a lecture on multi-pitch climbing

• The entire day will be devoted to the topic.

• SIGN-OFF – MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING TEST

A two pitch, moderately easy route will be prepared for students to havetheir first experience with a multi-pitch climb.

• Ropes will be set-up to provide a tope-rope back up.

• Anchors will be built at the belays, and instructors will be there to helpthe students move through their skills.

• They will act as a follower, and must demonstrate the necessary skillsto safely follow.

• The descent, rappel or walk-off.

• RCSC GRADUATION TRIP DISCUSSION

• Students will be given the information on the RCSC Graduation trip. Allstudents will be heavily encouraged to attend.

• If you have to make up any Sign-offs or work on any skills, you must attend theGraduation trip.

• Awards, and prizes will be awarded, as well as certificates of completion for allwho have successfully completed the RCSC.



Notes



Directions to

Stoney Point,

Chatsworth

Session 1 February 7th

8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

Session 2 February 21st

8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

Take the Simi Valley Freeway

(118) west and exit at Topanga

Canyon Boulevard. Turn left onto

Topanga and head south about mile (Chatsworth). Stoney Point is the unmistakable

rock upthrust on the Left. Make a U-Turn and park along Topanga Canyon Blvd.

From the Ventura Freeway (101), Exit Topanga Canyon Boulevard and head North

to a point just past the turnoff for Santa Susana Pass Road. Park on the east side of

Topanga Canyon Boulevard, and walk down the slight incline to the climbing sites.

STONEY POINT is a city park of Los Angeles, and it is the major climbing site within the entire

L.A. metropolitan region. Though its land area is small (only 22 acres), its sandstone bluffs and

boulders are extensively climbed. There are some limited opportunities for lead and direct-aid

climbing; however, STONEY POINT is primarily a top-roping and bouldering site. In such ca-

pacity, it excels. It has at least a dozen large faces, all of which are climbable. And there's seem-

ingly no limit to its bouldering potential: its slopes are covered with large and climbable boul-

ders and outcrops. In addition to its diversified climbing opportunities, STONEY POINT is

noteworthy from a historical point of view (climbing history, that is). The names of many well-

known climbing personalities are closely associated with STONEY POINT.

Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard, for example, both got their start at Stoney. For more de-

tailed information on both climbing history and climbing opportunities, consult the Stoney Point Guide by Paul Hellweg and Don Fisher.

Web Links for more info.

www.sowr.com www.ayola.com/stoney

Directions to Climbing Sites

http://www.sowr.com/

http://www.ayola.com/stoney







Directions to

Mt. Rubidoux,

Riverside

Sessions 3

March 7th

8:00-5:00

Session 4

March 21st

8:00 - 5:00

From Los Angeles: Head east on the 60 Freeway to Riverside. Exit on Market and

turn Right. Turn Right at Mission Inn Ave/7th Street. Turn Left at Redwood Dr.

Find parking at the intersection of 9th Street and Redwood. The entrance to the

park is just up the road.

From Orange County:Head east on the 91 Freeway to Riverside. Exit 14th Streetand Turn Left. Turn Right on Brockton. Turn Left on 9th Street and continue up

the street to Redwood to find parking. The entrance to the park is just up the road.

MOUNT RUBIDOUX is a boulder-strewn hilltop in the Riverside area. In addition to the ubiq-

uitous boulders, there are slab blocks of all shapes and sizes. The rock is solid quartz monzonite

similar to that found at Joshua Tree, and there are some truly classic routes. Some are done as

boulder problems, a few others can be lead, but for the most part Rubidoux is a top-rope site.

Though most of the routes tend to be short, the proliferation of good climbs makes Rubidoux an

appealing site.




Directions to Big Rock,

Lake Perris

Session 5

April 4th 8:00 am

Take either the 10, 60, or 91 Freeway

east to the 215 Freeway South. After

passing March Air Force Base, exit at

Ramona Expressway and turn Left.

6.5 miles (past the Lake Perris damand a large rock outcrop on the left) to Bernasconi Road. Turn left onto Bernasconi

Road and park either outside the obvious gate or proceed to the pay-parking

lot(recommended).Do not enter the park from the main entrance, you will be on

the wrong side of the lake.

Big Rock is a popular Southern California climbing spot located within Lake Perris State Rec-

reation Area in Riverside County. Big rock is just that, a giant granite rock approximately 180

feet high. It hosts 34 recognized routes that range from a modest 4th class to a 5.10d with one

A3 route. Although most routes are single pitch, or suitable for top rope, we have a couple of multi-pitch that take you to the upper level of the rock and several of the more challenging

routes. It’s popular with mostly beginning and intermediate climbers, but provides some aggres-

sive opportunities for that more advanced climber looking for a quick urban workout. A route

map is provided at the base of the rock, and they are also printed in several Southern California

climbing guides.




Directions to

Alabama Hills,

Lone Pine, Ca

Graduation

Trip !!!

April 18-19th

Tuttle CreekCampground

Head North on Highway 395 to the town of Lone Pine. Turn Left on Whitney

Portal Road. Turn Left at the sign for Horseshoe Meadow and the Tuttle Creek

Campground. Drive 1.6 miles and stay to the right for the campground.




By Pete Ryan Illustrated by Mike Clelland

Hands down — teach a better belay

Itʼs a spectacular autumn day at Coloradoʼs PenitenteCanyon, the air crisp and clear, dark-blue sky stretchingto the horizon. Arriving in the canyon, you drop a ropedown Mr. Breeze, a well-bolted 5.2 beginner route. Theroute is perfect for your buddy, Bubba, an athletic nov-ice, and easy for you — an important consideration, asyouʼll be using it to teach Bubba how to belay. As youclimb the friendly slab, you constantly remind Bubba notto release his brake hand. He doesnʼt seem to be get-ting it. At the top, you drop the rope and scramble down:Thereʼs no way youʼre leaning back on that belay.For 25 years I used and taught the classic “pinch”

method of belaying: hands on rope palms up and pink-ies toward the belay device, draw in rope; slide thefeeding hand up and pinch both ropes; and recover thebrake hand to the starting position. For 25 years I expe-rienced frighteningly poor early results, just like withBubba.Last summer, while working for Mountain AdventureSeminars in Bear Valley, California, I taught severalclimbing courses with K.C. Baum of the AmericanMountain Guides Association Technical Committee. Herecommended that I start teaching a more reliable,easier-to-master belay: the “hands-down” method. One

demo and I was convinced — this is a better belay toteach, especially for toproping.

The sequence is simple. Holding your brake handpalm-down with your thumb toward the belay deviceand your feeding hand in its traditional palm-up/pinky-toward manner, pull in rope in the usual, hands-in-unison fashion. At the end of each stroke, immediatelypull your brake hand back down to the brake position(Figure 1). Now move your feeding hand from theclimberʼs side of the rope to the brake side, graspingthe rope just beyond your brake hand, where it serves

temporarily as a back-up brake (Figure 2). Next, slideyour brake hand back up the rope (Figure 3). Returnyour feeding hand to the starting position, and repeatthe sequence. Many students find it helpful to repeatthe mantra: “Pull — brake — switch — slide.”There are several advantages to this technique: It em-ploys an instinctive palm-down braking position; itmakes it difficult for a belayer to pinch both ropes with

Tech Tips - Hands down Belay

Figure 1. Brake in the normal manner

Figure 2. ...then move your feedinghand down to brake..



the brake hand, a common mistake in the “pinch” method; it eliminates the problem of a belayerextending his brake hand beyond his feeding hand, forcing him to remove the brake hand on therecovery (another very common mistake); and it keeps the brake hand in a good position forconfident lowering.When taking in rope, students will sometimes make the mistake of pulling rope laterally from thebelay device with their brake hands. This, of course, activates the device and causes a greatdeal of friction. To remedy this, instruct students to move their brake hand toward the topropeanchor, rather than to the side, when recovering rope, and remember that this system is indi-cated for toproping only.The hands-down method is all I use and teach anymore, and Iʼm told itʼs gaining popularity withgyms and climbing schools. First-time climbers and grizzled mountain guides alike can benefitfrom this simpler, more foolproof belay.

Tech Tips - Hands down Belay

Figure 3. ...and slide your brake hand backup.



By Arno Ilgner Illustrated by Mike Clelland

The support team — the right way to coax a leader

The bolt is 10 feet below your buddy, who is palmingsloping huecos on a muggy August day. He hesitates,his hands beginning to slide. You, the well-intentionedbelayer, yell, “Come on! You can do it! Go for it!”Is this helpful? Perhaps not. Your comments are “sweetnothings,” devoid of real meaning and content. Worse,they can nudge the leader into a potentially risky situa-tion and get him hurt. So, how do you best support yourpartner?The “pre-flight” rundown. Before a climb, the leader willbegin psyching himself up for the effort. You can help bydoing a “pre-flight” rundown to clear up any points ofconcern. Do a buddy check, ensuring that the leaderwonʼt have sudden tie-in worries while climbing. Verballyand visually confirm that his (and your) harness is dou-bled back, and that his knot is tied correctly. Show theleader your belay device — threaded properly, with thelocking biner locked. Finally, ask the leader how he usu-ally clips — in one continuous motion, or in a series ofshort pulls? This will allow you to pay out slack effec-tively and let him know that youʼre ready to do so.Looking out for your leader. Keep an eye on the positionof your leaderʼs rope; make sure he doesnʼt get it behind

his leg, which can turn a safe fall into an upside-downhead-knocker. It helps to know the route as intimately asthe leader, so chat about it on the deck prior to theclimb. Knowing beforehand where the hardest clips andmoves are will allow you to respond with fast rope-handling.Clipping correctly is also critical. Make sure your leaderdoesnʼt back-clip (clipping backwards into the draw) or z-clip (pulling the rope from below thelast draw, which can occur when bolts are closely spaced).Anxiety neurosis. You can also help reduce your leaderʼs fear while heʼs climbing. Since youʼvetalked with him about the route, youʼll know when heʼs maxing out, a time heʼll most easily bedistracted by negative self-talk or fear of falling. When heʼs in these situations, help him refocushis attention on the climbing. Donʼt yell, “Go for it!” Instead say, “Breathe, relax, and hold on

loosely.” Doing so will help him regain his composure, allowing him to process himself throughthe chaos of the challenge, be it a slab or overhang.Do unto others. When you belay your partner you take on a lot of responsibility. This is not thetime to gossip to other climbers about your latest send — give the leader your full attention.Holding a fall is difficult enough and neednʼt be made more dangerous by inattentive belaying.Climbers yapping on the ground can also distract the leader. Donʼt bother trying to quiet themdown; instead focus on what you can control — coaching the leader and being attentive to hisneeds.

Tech Tip - The Support Team

Being a good belayer involves morethan just holding the rope.



Tech Tip - Trad - Fancy feetBy Jared Ogden Illustrations by Mike Clelland

Ever feel puzzled by how to best utilize your feet on crack

climbs? Splitters can feel desperate if you don’t have solidfootwork. Whether you’re heading out to send yourgranite nemesis, or to the cracks of Indian Creek, thesetechniques will have you better prepared for tight fingersto loose hands.The basics. The basic foot jam that all other jamming isbased on is best learned in a hand crack, as this sizeallows for solid feet. Use a shoe that allows your toes tolay flat. To start, slot your foot (big toe up, pinky toedown) into the crack up to the arch of your foot, keepingyour knee out to the side. Next, torque your knee inwards(towards the crack), twisting the shoe and locking it intoplace. Bend at your waist to raise your legs instead of bending your arms. This might feel insecure, but once youstep up, your weight will shift back onto your feet. Withboth feet locked in, push up with your legs, maintainingpressure on your feet, and bring your hips in close to thewall at the end of each movement, in order to transferweight off your arms and onto your feet. Your anklesshould feel like they’re holding most of your weight, andyour hands are simply holding you in place while you stepup.This is the nuts and bolts, but the technique becomes

more refined on the smaller sizes. Also, keep an eye outfor any edges on the face next to the crack, or pods in thecrack where you can get better purchase.Ratchets and ringlocks. A low-profile shoe wedges nicelyinto these cracks, but to get even more traction, use thefrog position. To do the frog, keep your feet high and closetogether, with your knees out to the sides. Then, twistyour knees in as you push up with your legs, and repeat.By placing your smallest toes in the crack, with your heelpointing down and your toes up, wedge the rand of your shoe hard into the crack.Your ankles should feel strained to maintain pressure, and your little toes shouldhurt since you’re really stuffing them hard into the crack.

Rattly fingers, fingers, and tips. On these smaller sizes make sure to keep yourfeet high, and don’t stretch out too far with your hands because you’re morelikely to loose control of your feet. A tighter shoe on the really small cracks willprovide better control on edges next to these nasties. Torque your feet as in thebasic method, but focus on smearing the rand on the pinky toe side into the crack.Look for the smallest irregularities in the crack, paste your toes on invisible smears,and work the edges no matter how desperate. Experiment by using one foot in the



crack while the other smears on the face, especially in a dihedral where you havemore surface area to work with, and where it might be more taxing to climb withboth feet in the crack. Push hard with your feet like you mean it, and keep pluggingaway.Now that you’ve read about it, you need to practice. Toproping is agreat way to dial in each technique. To develop these techniques, conserve armstrength and focus on your footwork. Crack climbing is hell on your ankles andpainful on your feet, so focus on speed and continuous movement; stalling in anuncomfortable position is the worst. After you’ve made some headway with thesetechniques, you’ll be flying up these harder sizes, grinning ear to ear.



Tech Tip - Sport - The basics of fallingBy Arno Ilgner

Illustrations by Mike Clelland

When taking practice falls, have plenty of ropedistance from your belayer; make sure your fallzone is steep and clear.

Falling is part of the climbing process. A holdbreaks, we slip, pump out, and we’re off. It’simportant to find appropriate ways to practicefalling so we learn to do it safely.Embrace. When we fall, intentionally orotherwise, we risk injury or death. Toembrace the situation we need to be fullyaware of everything that could happen. We

need to honestly assess all the possibleoutcomes rather than block them out. Byaccepting the possibilities — death, injury, orno injury — we become fully aware of whatwe are getting ourselves into. This awarenessis critical for effective and appropriatedecision-making. Once we are conscious of allthe possible outcomes, we can makeeffective, appropriate decisions that limit thekinds of fall consequences we engage.Engage. By practicing falling we improve ourability to respond to a fall. Even though wewant to embrace the possibility of injury, wewant to minimize the chance of that outcome.Your fall practice zone should be free of anyprotruding ledges and should have bomberprotection. In the beginning of your practice,choose a fall zone that is slightly overhangingto help reduce the possibility of injury. Then, as you gain experience, you canpractice more hazardous falling situations, such as those on vertical rock or withslightly swinging falls. Have plenty of rope in the system — at least 50 feet of ropebetween you and your belayer — to absorb the fall force. The rope will stretchduring your practice session, so, after a few falls, lower off and let the rope regain

its shape and length.If you’re new to falling, engage it gradually. Begin on toprope. Get used to thefeeling of hanging on the rope, perhaps “running” or “pedaling” back and forthacross the rock. Then, tell your belayer to leave some slack in the rope while youclimb up a few moves and take a fall. Next, try practicing your lead falls. Begin bysimply letting go right by the bolt. Then, climb a move or two above the bolt andtake a fall. Increase your fall distance in small increments.Maintain proper form as you practice falling. Proper form includes keeping yourarms and legs slightly bent with your arms out in front at chest height so you can



respond to potential impact. Don’t grab the rope. Step off gently rather than jumping out and back, which can cause you to slam into the wall. Pay attention toyour breathing and how relaxed you feel. If you are holding your breath and feelingtense, then you need more practice before progressing to the next increment.When taking diagonal falls, pay attention to the rope in relation to your feet. If youare directly above the bolt, then the rope needs to be between your feet. If you areto the right or left of the bolt, then the rope needs to be outside of your feet. Enjoyyour flight!



The evaluation climb - especially your first one - is really more of a real-life

teaching session than a "test". There are many aspects of the sport that are

better learned on the rock than in a class setting, and your instructor/leaderwill use the evaluation climb as an opportunity to begin tuning into these, as

well as to have some fun.

The things you will be expected to know and be evaluated on are the

following:

KNOTS: you must get in your harness and have it secured appropriately.

Your tie-in knot (figure 8 follow-through) MUST be right.

BELAYING: You will be expected to know how to belay, and to NEVER take

your brake hand off the rope.

ANCHORING: You MUST know how to tie yourself into the anchor system

independently of your leader/partner. That is, you must tie in without using

any of your partner's slings or carabiners. You CANNOT unlock any locking

carabiner in use by your partner in order to use it to anchor yourself. Thus,

you need to carry at least TWO locking carabiners at a minimum (one for

your belay device, and one to anchor in with), and perhaps a sling from you

to the anchor as well. It is okay to tie into the anchor with the rope rather

than a sling or daisy chain (your leader/instructor can demonstrate this for

you). THE RULE IS: you must EITHER be secured to the anchor with a lock-

ing carabiner OR on belay at all times once you leave the ground. This is asafety issue, as are all of these points.

SIGNALS: You were taught these in class ("on belay"; "off belay"; "climb-

ing"; "tension"; "up-rope"; "slack", et al). You MUST use the proper signals

at the right times, and yell it loudly and clearly enough to be heard. If there

are parties climbing nearby, using your partners name is vital (e.g., "off be-

lay, John").

One slip on any of these areas is NOT grounds for failure. The problem will

be pointed out by your instructor/leader and the climb will continue. If you

continue to make the same mistake, your leader/instructor will likely hesi-tate to pass you, fearing for your future safety and that of your partners.

Climbing can exact terrible penalties for inattention. You MUST be

solid on safety procedures so that you can proceed with your development

as a climber without killing yourself or others.

What To Expect On Your Student

Evaluation Climbs



What should you take to Tahquitz and on the climbs?

Harness

Helmet

Rock shoes

Cordelette, slings, locking carabiners, Belay device and prusik cords

a nut/stopper cleaning tool

windbreaker

climbing pants (something flexible, and somewhat loose. Not jeans!)

2 quarts water, minimum (one for the approach and descent)

two or three energy bars (you do NOT stop for 'lunch' while climbing!)

a very small daypack or Camelback large enough to hold water, bars,

and a windbreaker

Your instructor/leader will go over some of these items with you and clarifyany questions you may have regarding required items, as well discussing the

climb you will do and any peculiarities related to it. Remember, the approach

to Tahquitz is 30 minutes to one hour depending upon your level of fitness (a

fast and steep 800' elevation gain), so get your rest the night before. After

topping out on the climb, you will have an approximate thirty minute de-

scent back to your packs and start of the climb.

Make sure you have brushed up on your skills before embarking on your first

evaluation climb. If you are uncertain about something, feel free to contact

any NTC instructors or one of the assistant instructors to ask for help.

Good luck and BE SAFE, but most importantly, HAVE FUN!

What To Expect On Your Student

Evaluation Climbs



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms




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