horiz_vert router table

7/29/2019 Horiz_Vert Router Table

1/17

Mission Furniture

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2/17

Note: To use the pivoting arm andcrank for raising and lowering therouter, you must install a plunge routerwhose motor housing top is flat andunobstructed.

Start with the cabinetand the tables

1Because you need the four studdedknobs already fabricated for use later

in the project, make them now. To makethe knobs, cut four 2fi" lengths of "threaded rod and epoxy them into fourplastic knobs. See the Buying Guide forour source for the knobs. Set the knobsaside while the epoxy cures.

2Cut the base (A) and sides (B) to thesizes listed in the Bill of Materials.

Drill four " holes in the base, whereshown on the Parts View drawing, at theend of this article. Cut the rabbets in thebottom edges of the sides, drill the "holes, and form the " slot, whereshown on the Parts View: Side drawing.The slot is located only on the right side.Glue and screw the sides to the base asshown in the Cabinet Assembly draw-ing, keeping the sides square to thebase.

3Cut the table front/back skirts (C),side skirts (D), auxiliary side skirts

(E), and auxiliary back skirt (F) to size.Form the rabbets in the ends of thefront/back skirts (C), rout the stoppedslots in the side skirts (D), and drill the" holes in the side skirts (D) and aux-

In its horizontal configuration, this routertable is great for mortise and tenon work. Acrank makes vertical adjustment con-

venient and accurate. For opera-tions requiring traditional vertical

orientation, the router table con-verts quickly without tools. The

same crank that adjusts the ver-tical table now raises and lowers

the plunge router.

all-purpose

54 DP-00364a WOOD magazine December2000

router stat ion


3/17

iliary side skirts (E), where shown on theTable Assembly, and Auxiliary TableAssembly drawings. To form thestopped slots in the side skirts (D), chucka " straight bit in your table-mountedrouter and raise it to cut " deep.Position the fence to center the bit on thewidth of the skirts. Limit the cut byclamping stopblocks to the fence. Withone end against the right stopblock,lower the skirt onto the running bit androut the length of the slot. Repeat thisprocess, raising the bit " with eachpass until you rout the slot through.Install the T-nuts in the side skirts (D) andauxiliary side skirts (E).

4Drill pilot and countersunk shankholes, and screw the frames together,

as shown on the Table Assembly andAuxiliary Table Assembly drawings.Cut the top (G) and auxiliary top (H) tosize, and clamp them to the frames C/Dand C/E/F, making certain the frames aresquare. Drill pilot and countersunkshank holes, where shown on the PartsView and Auxiliary Table Assemblydrawings, and screw and glue the tops tothe frames.

Note: The length of the table assem-blies C/D/G and C/E/F/H must be thesame dimension as the distance betweenthe cabinet sides (B), minus the thicknessof two business or playing cards foroperating clearance.

Doublemagneticcatch and strikeplates

#8 x 2fi" F.H.wood screws

x 2" carriage bolts formounting cabinet to stand

B

A

B 22"" holes


" slot" long

" holes,countersunkon back side

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screw

" rabbet fi" deep

1"

1"

3" wire pulls

1"

x 2"no-mortise

hinge

11"

" rabbet fi" deep


16"

12fi"

" hole

L

J

IJ

" hole

K

I

K

Mount router underneath plate.

11 x 10" Phenolic insert

" mini channel 11" long

#6 x 1" F.H. wood screw

#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screws

Router plate cutout

" rabbet *" deep(*thickness of router plate)

" stopped rabbet" deep11" long

" groove " deep(Size to fit yourmiter gauge.)

Plastic knobs with" threaded inserts

" flat washers

" slot12" long

" hole,

countersunk

1" hole, countersunk

" hole

" T-nut x 2fi"hexhead bolt

" rabbet fi" deep

22"

24"

" threaded rod2fi" long,epoxied intoplastic knob

1" hole#10-24 x " F.H. machine screw

" hole, countersunk

" hole

#10-24 T-nut

G

D

" internal-tooth star lock washer

" flat washer

D

C

C

Continued

www.woodonline.com

1"

" slot " hole

" holes, countersunk(Angle holes 10.)

" 1"

2fi"

1"

12"

21fi"

fi"

fi"

fi"

D

Front end

1fi"

CABINET ASSEMBLY

TABLEASSEMBLY

SIDE

SKIRT

See theWOOD PATTERNS

insert for theFULL-SIZE PATTERNS and

Parts View drawing.

55


4/17

5Rout grooves in the top (G) and aux-iliary top (H) to match the bar on

your miter gauge, where shown on theParts View and Auxiliary TableAssembly drawings. Set the auxiliarytable aside. Rout the stopped rabbets inthe rear edges of the top (G), and squarethe ends with a chisel.

Form a recessfor the insert

1Trim the insert to size, and center iton the top (G), where shown on the

Parts View: Top drawing. Draw a pencil

line around it. See the Buying Guide forour source for an oversize insert blank.Remove the insert. Cut four 616"particleboard routing guides, and clamptwo of them in place aligned with twoadjacent sides of the marked outline.Replace the insert, and position andclamp the other two guides in place, asshown in Photo A. Remove the insert.

2Position " thick, " wide spacerstrips around the inside of the open-

ing formed by the routing guides. Secure"-thick, 45 triangles, 2" long on thediagonal, in the corners with double-

faced tape. Chuck a fi" top-bearingpattern bit in your handheld router.Starting with the depth of cut set at ",and increasing the depth of cut " witheach pass, make repeated passes to cut

56 WOOD magazine December 2000

x 48 x 96" Batlic birch plywood

RQ L

K

GBA HB

K

SPO

MMJ*

I *

J *

*These pieces are cut from the same blank.**Part initially cut oversize.

x 5 fi x 96" Maple

FED

C C D

U V

x 5 x 5" Tempered hardboardT

**

** **

I *

" plastic knobs withthreaded inserts

24"

" groove " deep, centered(Size to fit your miter gauge.)

" threaded rod 2fi" longepoxied into plastic knob

" flat washer

" holes,countersunkon back side

#8 x 1fi" F.H.wood screwsangled 10

" rabbetfi" deep

" hole

" T-nuts

1"

1"

13fi"

F

E

H

1"

E

2fi"

2"

" hole

#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw

" hole, countersunk

764" pilot hole " deep

C

Router Station

AUXILIARY TABLE ASSEMBLY

CUTTING DIAGRAM

* These pieces are cut from the same blank.** Part initially cut oversize.

Materials Key: BBBaltic birch plywood, Mmaple,Dhardwood dowel,Htempered hardboard.

Supplies: #61" flathead wood screws (15), #81"flathead wood screws (14), #81fi" flathead woodscrews (50), #82fi" flathead wood screws (5),2fi" hexhead bolts (2), 3" hexhead bolt, 4fi"hexhead bolt, 2" carriage bolts (4), #10-24" flat-head machine screws (4), " T-nuts (6), #10-24 T-nuts (4), " lock nuts (5), " hex nuts (4), " couplingnut, " flat washers (26), " nylon washer, " inter-nal-tooth star washers (2), 1" dowel (2" long), 2"no-mortise hinges (4), 3" wire pulls (2), double mag-netic catch, 1" wood knob, epoxy, clear finish,primer, paint.

Buying GuideHardware kit: " mini channel (2 @ 11", 1 @24" long), plastic knobs with " threaded inserts (11)," threaded rod (4 @ 2fi", 1 @ 9fi" long), 1fi"square-head bolts (5), 1111" phenolic sheet.Order WOOD KIT RTS-1, $47.95 ppd., Schlabaughand Sons Woodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA52247 or call 800/346-9663.Lumber pack: " Baltic birch plywood cut slightlylarger than the sizes listed on the Bill of Materials.Order WOOD KIT LP-3, $95.00 ppd. from the sameaddress or phone listed above.

finished sizePart T W L Matl. Qty.

A base " 22" 25" BB 1

B sides " 22" 16" BB 2

C front/back skirts " 2fi" 24" M 3

D side skirts " 2fi" 21fi" M 2E auxi liary

side skirts " 2fi" 13" M 2F auxi liary

back skirt " 2fi" 22fi" M 1

G top " 22" 24" BB 1

H auxiliary top " 13fi" 24" BB 1

I* brace " 4fi" 12" BB 2

J* table guide " 12" 12" BB 2

K doors " 11" 12fi" BB 2L arm block " 3" 6" BB 1

M lift arms " 7" 12fl" BB 2

N wrist pin 1" diameter 2" D 1

O**crank " 2" 6" BB 1

P discs " 2" diameter BB 4

Q fence face " 3" 24" BB 1

R fence base " 2fl" 24" BB 1

S fence blocks " 2" 2" BB 2

T vac port " 3" 4" H 1

U stop bases " 1" 1fi" M 2

V stop blocks fl" 1fi" 4" M 2

BILL OF MATERIALS


5/17

out an opening in the center of the top, asshown in Photo B. Remove the spacerstrips and triangles.

3Place the insert on top of the routingguides and the router on top of the insert.

Adjust the depth of cut so the pattern bit justgrazes the exposed edge of the tabletop.Remove the insert, and rout the exposed lipof the tabletop, as shown in Photo C.

4Round the corners of the insert tomatch the corners of the recess, and

drill countersunk " holes, whereshown on the Table Assembly drawing.Use the insert to mark the locations ofthe T-nut holes in the corners of therecess and drill the holes.

Complete thecabinet assembly

1Mount the table assembly C/D/Gbetween the sides of the cabinet

assembly A/B. Insert studded knobsthrough the front holes in the cabinetsides, and screw them into the T-nuts atthe front of the side skirts, as shown onthe Table Assembly drawing. Insert hex

bolts from the inside through the slots inthe skirts and the rear holes in the cabi-net sides. Secure the bolts with knobs.

2Cut two 1812" blanks for thebraces (I) and table guides (J), and

test them for a snug fit, as shown inPhoto D. Trim the blank if necessary,then cut the braces and guides from theblanks, as shown on the Lift Mechanismdrawing. To cut the rounded corners ofthe guides, make copies of the full-sizepattern. Adhere the patterns to the guideblanks with spray adhesive, and jigsawand sand the blanks to the pattern lines.

3Remove the front studded knobs;loosen the rear knobs; slide the table

back; and, pivoting the table on the rearbolts, flip it vertically and lower it untilit rests on the base. Square the table tothe base, and tighten the knobs. Positionthe braces (I) against the back of thetable skirts, as shown in Photo E. Drillpilot and countersunk shank holesthrough the base (A) and sides (B) intothe braces (I), and screw them in place.

4Position the right table guide (J)against the inside of the cabinet, and

push it back against the top of the table.Using the slot in the side (B) as a guide,mark the location of the slot on the tableguide (J). Cut out the slot, and drill thecountersunk shank holes in both guides(J). Now, pin the top between the bracesin the rear and the guides in the front, asshown on the Parts View: Side drawing.Clamp the guides in place, as shown inPhoto F. Using the pre-drilled shankholes as guides, drill pilot holes into thesides, and screw the table guides in place.

5Return the table to its horizontal posi-tion, insert the front studded knobs,

and tighten them. Check the size of thefront opening and, allowing a " gap allaround, cut the doors (K) to size. Drillholes and install the pulls, as shown onthe Cabinet Assembly drawing. Mountthe hinges on the doors, and hang thedoors on the cabinet. Install the magneticcatch. Remove the table and set it aside.

www.woodonline.com 56

Use business or playing cards asspacers to provide working clearancefor the insert.

With the guide bearing of the pattern bitriding on the spacer strips and triangles,cut out the opening.

With the bearing of the pattern bit ridingon the routing guides, form the insertrecess.

Inserted from the front, the blanks for Iand J make a snug fit between the baseand the bottom of the table.

Working from the rear, square the tableto the base, and position the braces.

Clamp the guides to the sides, insertingbusiness cards for working clearance.

A B C

D E F


6/17

Fashion thelift mechanism

1Form the arm block (L), as shown onthe Lift Mechanism drawing.

Position it inside the cabinet, centeredunderneath the slot in the right tableguide (J), as shown. Drill pilot and coun-tersunk shank holes through the base(A), side (B), and table guide (J) into thearm block, as shown on the CabinetAssembly drawing, and screw the armblock in place.

2Fasten two 813" blanks for the liftarms (M) together with double-faced

tape. Make a copy of the lift arm full-size pattern, and adhere it to the blanks

with spray adhesive. Drill the holes onyour drill press, then bandsaw and sandthe parts to the pattern line. Separate theparts and set them aside.

3Cut a 2" long piece of 1" dowel forthe wrist pin (N). Using a V-block on

your drill press, drill the counterboredhole, as shown on the Lift Mechanismdrawing. Epoxy one end of a " cou-pling nut into the counterbore and set thewrist pin aside.Note: The longer threaded length of acoupling nut spreads the stress of adjust-ment over more threads and reduceswear on both the nut and threaded rod.

4Make a copy of the crank (O) full-size pattern, and adhere it to a

26fi" blank. Drill the counterboreand holes, and bandsaw and sand theends to shape. Rout the round-over onthe edge of the counterbored face. Bandsawfour 2" discs (P), drill " holes in theircenters, and sand them to finish size.Glue and clamp one of them to the back

(no round-over) of the crank, aligningthe " holes. Set the other discs aside.Glue and screw the wood knob to the crank.

5Assemble the lift mechanism asshown on the Lift Mechanism draw-

ing, using the three discs set aside inStep 4. With the crank and rod assemblyprotruding through the slot in the cabinetside, run the inside lock nut and washerup the threaded rod to the face of thetable guide (J), allowing just enoughplay for the rod to swivel as the mecha-nism is adjusted up and down.

Next build your fenceand a pair of stops

1Cut the fence face (Q) to size. Use adado blade in your tablesaw to cut the

notch in two passes, as shown on theFence Assembly drawing. Prevent tear-out by backing your cut with a woodauxiliary fence attached to your mitergauge. Cut the fence base (R) to size.Rout the chamfer along the back edge,drill the holes, and form the semicircularcutout as shown. Glue and clamp thefence face to the fence base, making surethey form a 90 angle.

2Form the triangular fence blocks (S),as shown on the Fence Assembly

drawing. Glue and clamp them toassembly Q/R, where shown. Cut alength of mini channel 24" long, anddrill and countersink it for #6 flatheadscrews. The Buying Guide lists a sourcefor this channel. Position it on the topedge of the fence, with the front of thechannel flush with the face of the fence.Drill pilot holes and screw the channel inplace. Cut a 34" piece of " hard-board for the vac port (T), and form ahole in it to fit your shop vacuum hose.


" slot" long

B

A

" hole

" flat washers

" lock nut

" holes

" hole

" round-over

" counterbore" deep " lock nut

and flat washer

1" dia.wooden

knob

x 9" threaded rod

" lock nut and flat washer

fl" counterbore " deep witha " hole centered inside

" locknuts andflat washers

" holes " holes

1" hole

x 4fi" hexhead bolt and " flat washer

x 3" hexhead bolt and " flat washer

" nylon washer

P

O

N

M

J

I

L

" coupling nut epoxiedinto counterbore

P

P

P

FRONT VIEW

2"

fl" counterbore" deep

" hole

SIDE VIEW END VIEW

1"

1" dowel

N

N

Router Station

" hole

6"

3"

3" 1"

2"

L

12"

12"" holes, countersunk

4fi"

1fi"

J

I

See full-size pattern.

18"

WRIST PIN

LIFT MECHANISM

TABLE GUIDE/CABINET BRACE ARM BLOCK


7/17

Screw the vac port to the fence, asshown on the Fence Section View.

3Cut the stop bases (U) and stop-blocks (V) to size. Drill holes in the

bases, as shown on the Fence Assemblydrawing. Secure the bases to the channelwith square head bolts and knobs.Position the stopblocks on the bases,using a square to align them perpendicu-lar to the length of the fence. Clamp thestopblocks to the fence, and drill pilot andcountersunk shank holes through theblocks into the bases. Unclamp theblocks, apply glue, and drive the screws.

Finishing andfinal assembly

1Remove the doors and door hard-ware. Disassemble the lift mecha-

nism, leaving only the arm block (L) inplace. Remove the bolts and knobs fromthe stops and the channel from the fence.Finish-sand all parts and assembliesthrough 220-grit. Apply two coats ofsatin polyurethane to the inside of thecabinet, and all surfaces of the table,auxiliary table, lift arms, crank, rollers,fence, and stops. Sand between coatswith 220-grit sandpaper.

2Prime and paint the outside of thecabinet, including the edges of the

base and sides, and all surfaces of thedoors. We masked off the interior of thecabinet, and used Krylon 2012 CloverGreen/Safety Green spray paint as ourfinish coat.

3Reassemble the lift mechanism,greasing the threaded rod where the

coupling nut runs. Mount the hinges andpulls, rehang the doors, and reinstall themagnetic catch. Cut two 11" lengths ofchannel, drill and countersink them for#6 flathead screws, and screw them tothe top, as shown in the Table Assemblydrawing. Install T-nuts in the corners ofthe insert recess. Screw the previouslycut piece of channel to the fence.

4Remove the subbase from yourrouter, center it on the insert, and use

it to mark the locations of the routermounting screws. Drill and countersinkthe holes, and mount the insert to the

router. Chuck a " brad-point drill bit inthe router, and turning the collet byhand, mark a center point. Remove therouter, and drill a 1" hole in the insert.Remount the insert to the router, thenmount the combination in the top, fas-tening the insert in place with flatheadmachine screws.

5Position the table in its vertical con-figuration by sliding it, front (T-nut

end) first, into the slot between thebraces and table guides and letting itcome to rest on the rear disc of the liftmechanism. Fasten it in place, throughthe slots in the side skirts, with hex headbolts, lock washers, flat washers, andknobs. Position the auxiliary tablebetween the sides, resting on the tableguides. Fasten it in place with four stud-ded plastic knobs and washers.

6Install square head bolts, washers,and knobs on the fence and stops, as

shown on the Fence Assembly drawing.Slide the heads of the bolts in the stopsinto the channel on the fence, and tight-en the knobs. Slide the heads of the boltsin the fence into the channels on thetable, and tighten the knobs.Note: For instructions on using the router sta-

tion, see the following article on page 60. Tobuild the leg stand, see Great Ideas For YourShop on page 28.


Written byJ an Hale Svec with Erv RobertsProject Design:Conway Dobbs;J ames R. DowningIllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna J ohnsonPhotographs: Baldwin Photography

Hole to fit dustcollection orshop vac

x 1fi"square-head bolts

#6 x 1" F.H. wood screws

#6 x 1" F.H.wood screw

" mini channel24" long

" shank hole, countersunk

1" notch 2" long

24"

" pilot hole," deep

1"

11fi"

" holes,countersunk

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screws

" chamferalong back edge

R

S

T

Q

S

" plasticknobs with

threaded inserts

" flat washers

" hole, centered

V

1"

" hole

U

Mini channel

Front offence

TS

R

Align

Q

2"

2"

S

#6 X 1" F.H.wood screw

"

"

4"

1fi"

" holes,countersunk V

1fi"

1"

"

" hole,centered

U

2fl"1fl"

fi"" hole

fi"

12"

" chamfer24"

R= 1"

Location of

R

S

FENCE BASE

FENCE SECTION VIEW

FENCE ASSEMBLY

FENCE BLOCKS

STOPBLOCK

STOP BASE


8/17

BASE

A

25"

12"

17"

"

" holes, countersunkon bottom side

Location of

Location of

Location of

Location of

3fi"

22"

" hole" hole

" hole

" hole

3"3"

2fi"

2fi"

L

J

I

I

10"

1fi"

3"

16"

9fl"

" holes

x " slot (right side only)

"

17"

" rabbetfi" deep

10" 1"

4"

1"

*"

B

" hole,countersunk

" hole, countersunk(right side only)

22"

12"

SIDEINSIDE VIEW

(2 needed)

14""

Location of Table assemblyin vertical position

Location of ILocationof L

Locationof J

*Minimum of "for door clearance,trim if necessary.J

PARTS VIEW

WOOD PATTERNS insertParts View drawings


9/17

Router plate cutout

" rabbet, depth same asthickness of insert plate

" groove" deep(size to fit yourmiter gauge)

24" """ stopped rabbets " deep

11"

22"

4"

12"

11"

" holes,countersunk

TOP

G

10"

11"

2"" hole, allfour corners

PARTS VIEW

WOOD PATTERNS insertParts View drawings


10/17

FULL-SIZE

PATTERNS

O

"hole

"counterbore"deep

"hole

"round-over(on

facesideonly)

2"

6"

Alignwithcorne

rofblank. J

TABLEGUIDE

(2needed)

CRA

NK

To ensure full-size patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measure

full-size patterns to verify size.

1"

fi

WOOD PATTERNS insertFULL-SIZE PATTERNS


11/17

WOOD magazine OCTOBER 2000

" hole

Join pattern here.

To ensure full-size patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measurefull-size patterns to verify size.

1"

fi

M

LIFT ARM(2 needed)



12/17

" hole

1" hole

M

LIFT ARM(2 needed)

Join pattern here.

To ensure full-size patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measurefull-size patterns to verify size.

1"

fi



13/17


Use the workpiece to set the fence as a hold-down. The stock must slide smoothlythrough from end to end for safety and a precise cut.

horizontal/

verticalrouter table

Our two-way table, described in the preceding

pages, makes already versatile plunge routers

even easier to use. J ust follow these steps to

get smooth results every time.

You already know how useful yourrouter can be with the bit pointedstraight up or straight down. But

have you ever thought about what wood-working feats you could accomplishwith it mounted horizontally? Youllfind that several operations, such as rais-ing panels, mortising, and tenoning,become much easier and safer with thebit parallel to the work surface and theworkpiece lying flat.

Get thehorizontal advantageVertical panel-raising bits and someedge profile bits work great with theback table upright and the router hori-zontal. Youll have to cut an opening inthe auxiliary table thats big enough toaccommodate the largest bit that youplan to use. See the photo below.

how to use the

Only part of the bit extends above thework surface in the horizontal setup, soyoull have to cut an opening to accom-modate the rest of it. We made ours 2"long and 1" wide, big enough to let thispanel-raising bit spin freely.


14/17

Raise the fence out of the way, andloosen the knobs holding the verticaltable. Turn the crank on the side of thecabinet to adjust the depth of cut, thenretighten the knobs. Note that youll feedstock from left to right. The photo on

page 60 bottom left shows our handyreminder, printed and drawn right on thefence with a dark, permanent marker.

In this position, your fence serves as along hold-down. Place the workpieceflat on the front table. Then lower thefence until it contacts the piece lightlyand evenly, from end to end. Again, seethe photo.

Take several light cuts to shape a pro-file, finishing up with a setting that justskims the surface. Youll get thesmoothest possible result that way.

We built one more accessory, a hold-down block, to use for mortise and tenonwork at the end of a narrow board, or onthe side of a narrow stile. See the draw-ing above right for the dimensions anddetails. It fits into the channel on thefence and keeps the workpiece securewhile providing a clear view.

An upcut spiral bit excels at mortiseand tenon tasks. Install one in yourrouter, use a couple of test pieces to setthe height and depth, and transfer yourlayout lines from the workpiece to theauxiliary table. When working on a shortstile, use both stop blocks to control thecut. Youll be limited to one stop blockwith longer workpieces. As shown in the

photo above right, you can even cut intothe end of a rail for loose tenons.

To form standard tenons, set the depthof cut, place the hold-down block in con-tact with the workpiece face, as shown inthe photo above left, and cut the tenonsside shoulders in one or more passes.Use the miter gauge to support the work-piece. Loosen the fence knobs and resetthe height of the hold-down block whenyou flip the rail on edge to cut the finaltwo shoulders.

Go verticalwhen necessaryNow lets say you want to reset therouter to its vertical position so you canuse a large-diameter panel-raising bit.Loosen the bolts that hold the auxiliarytable in place and remove it. Loosen thebolts that hold the main table and crankthe lift mechanism as low as it will go.

Slide the table up and out of its slots,pivot it back and down, and fasten itwith the knobs and bolts.

Now youre back to the more familiarrouter table arrangement. Take advan-tage of the miter gauge slot to guidewide pieces with your tablesaw mitergauge. Use the stop blocks to makeaccurate stopped dadoes.

Remember, the design calls for aplunge router, and you must keep theplunge mechanism unlocked to adjustcutting height. Now the crank forces therouter up along its plunge rods for adeeper cut or lowers it for a lighter cut.

Make sure to tighten the knobs on thefence every time you reposition it. Feedstock from right to left in this setup, anduse a featherboard when possible.


For mortising, set both stop blocks whenever possible.Guide the stock with your miter gauge.

4"

4"

21/2"

2" 1"

3/8" hole

3/8" plastic knobwith threaded insert

3/8" square head bolt 11/2" long

#8 x 11/4" F.H. wood screw

5/32" shank hole,countersunk

3/8" flat washer

Photographs: Baldwin PhotographyIllustration: Roxanne LeMoine

Slide the hold-down block into the fencechannel, and center it whenever youneed to keep a narrow piece in place.

HOLD-DOWN BLOCK


15/17

28

for your shopg r e a t id e a s

Aleg stand, with its tapered andslightly splayed legs, makes asturdy, yet good-looking base for anymachine. In fact, the router table on

page 54 rests squarely on one. Use thedimensions shown here in the Bill ofMaterials to make one for the routertable or, alter the lengths of the partsand make one to fit a machine in yourshop. To size the parts for anymachine, follow these guidelines: 1)

Subtract 158" from the length of themachine for the length of the side rails(A). 2) Subtract 314" from the width ofthe machine for the length of the endrails (B). 3) Subtract 3" from the lengthof the side rails (A) for the length ofthe cleats (C). 4) Multiply your desiredheight by 1.074 for the length of theblanks for the leg halves (D). Screw apiece of plywood to the cleats and boltyour machine to it. Now, heres how toput your leg stand together.

After cutting the rails (A) and (B) tothe dimensions shown on the PartsView drawing onpage 30, screw themtogether to form a rectangular frame. Fitthe cleats (C) into the rail frame andscrew them in place. Set the frame aside.

Cut blanks for the leg halves (D) tosize, and before forming the legs, drillthe holes where shown. Remember tomake mirrored pairs. Bevel-rip themating edges. Then, with the sawblade tilted at the same angle, cut the

leg standfor stationary tools

spline slots in the bevels. Next, makethe angled and beveled cuts at the topand bottom of each leg half. Do not cutthe leg tapers until the halves havebeen glued together.

WOOD magazine December 2000

441/2O

bevels onoutside corners of legs

9O

bevels alongall top edges

3/8" holes

3/8 x 2"carriage bolts

1/8 x 1/2 x 26"hardboard spline

3/8" flat washer and bolts

EXPLODED VIEW9O

bevels along side and ends

3

/8

" holes for mounting router table cabinet

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screws

1/8" splineslots 1/4"deep

No bevel on this edge

#8 x 2" F.H.wood screws

C

B A

A

B

D

D

D

1/4" round-overs

D

D

C

Continued on page 30

Materials Key: Mmaple

Supplies: " tempered hardboard, 2" carriagebolts, flat washers and nuts (16), #82" flathead woodscrews (16), finish.

finished sizePart T W L Matl. Qty.

A side rails " 5" 25" M 2

B end rails " 5" 20" M 2

C cleats " 1fi" 22" M 2

D leg halves " 6fi" 27" M 8

BILL OF MATERIALS


16/17

PARTS VIEW

271/8"

3/4"

5"

20"

9O

bevel along top edge9

O

B

END RAIL

LEG HALVES

C

221/4"

11/2"

9O

bevels3/8" holes; mark locationsusing holes in cabinet base.

CLEAT

5"

251

/4"

9O

bevel along top edge9

O

A

Cleats are located here.C5/32" holes, countersunk

SIDE RAIL

3/4"

3/8" holes

44.5O

bevel

4"

15/8"

31/2"

11/4"

9O

bevel alongtop edge

31/4"

61/2"

9O

9O

9O

bevelalongbottom edge

D


Clamp the frame upside down on

your workbench. Apply glue to themating bevels of the leg halves, andinsert the splines. While holding thehalves together by hand, clamp thelegs to the frame. This holds thehalves at the proper angle while youfinish clamping the length of the leg,as shown in the photo at left. Whenthe glue is dry, mark the tapers on thelegs, and cut with a jigsaw or band-saw. Clean up the cuts with a coupleof passes over your jointer. Rout theround-overs, and using the holesdrilled in the legs as guides, drill the

holes in the frame.

for your shopg r e a t id e a sContinued from page 28

Bolt the legs in place, and if needed,

cut a piece of plywood and screw it tothe cleats. Place your tool on the stand,and mark the locations of the mountingbolts with a pencil.

Drill the holes and apply the finish ofyour choice. When the finish is dry,bolt your machine in place and enjoysafe, rock-solid woodworking.

Written byJ an Hale Svec with Erv RobertsProject Design:J ames R DowningIllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna JohnsonPhotographs: Baldwin Photography

leg stand

Clamping the legs (D) to the frame (A/B/C)holds them at the proper angle while you

finish clamping their length. Copyright Meredith Corporation 2000


17/17

,

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